Is Northeast Safe for travellers?

If you are planning a visit to the northeastern part of India, you must have asked this question already to someone. Considering the turbulent history and the remoteness of the region, a lot of people hesitate to venture into it. This is the reason why tourism has not yet taken off the way it should have, although it has seen significant growth over the last decade or so. However, to say that the entire region is unsafe will be a gross disservice to the region and the delights that it can offer to travellers.

Safety & Security in Northeast India

Understanding the Question

It must be said that this is a very generalized question, generally asked by people who don’t understand the region. It is a diverse region although people tend to club it together. The situation can differ in different states and it can also be different in different areas of the same state. So, this calls for a more detailed answer. It depends on the areas you are planning to visit and also timings. But before that, let us have a little bit of background.

The political unrest in the region can be traced back to historical events, ethnocultural differences, and resultant identity politics. Anyway, the good news is that it used to be far worse. I grew up in Assam in the 90s and I have seen the worst days of insurgency and an overall sense of hopelessness. The situation has gradually softened over the years but some other areas still remain tricky. Nevertheless, it has been gradually changing. With more contact with the other parts of the world, newer generations have moved out for education and jobs. This is also true for people from other parts of the country. Conservative older generations were wary of visiting NE but newer generations are more willing to experience it and get introduced to new cultures. Anyway, let us have a look at the situation state by state.

Is Assam Safe for Travel?

You can easily travel around any part of Assam nowadays. Road conditions and rail connectivity has also improved along with internet connectivity. So, you can roam around without much trouble.   

Assam has had various political movements over the decades. It saw a very difficult period from 1979 to the late 2000s, starting with the Assam Movement and the emergence of ULFA as well as the likes of NDFB, BLT, and DHD, and many other smaller identity-based organizations representing different ethnic groups. All of them demanded their autonomous regions, states, or even their own independent nation ruled by one ethnic or linguistic group. Over the years, the situation has gradually calmed down. Most of the organizations have made peace and some of them are now participating in the electoral process. Bodo organizations have made peace and formed Bodoland, an autonomous region within Assam. Similarly, there are some other autonomous regions for other ethnic groups. Most of the ULFA leaders have also given up arms and only a small fraction of ULFA still remain in action although they are almost inactive now.

Is Nagaland Safe for Travel?

As far as tourists are concerned, popular areas around Kohima city should not have any issues. Mon district is remote and has its issues but at the same time, tourists do visit it. There are a lot of other districts in the state, especially those bordering Myanmar, which are rarely visited by general tourists but hardened adventurers do venture into them but they are advised to do their research before going.

Nagaland has taken many strides towards peace of late but occasional incidents can always take place. The dissent in this region started as soon as India gained independence. The first major leader in this regard was A Z Phizo, who formed the Naga National Council. He later escaped the country and eventually passed away in London in exile. However, it led the way for the National Socialist Council of Nagaland (NSCN), which again got divided into two factions, Isak-Muivah (NSCN I-M) & Khaplang (NSCN K). It ensued decades of unrest although efforts have been going on for the peace process. Especially, I-M has been involved in a ceasefire with the GoI in recent times while one faction of NSCN K is also in talks.

Is Arunachal Safe for Travel?

Arunachal has probably emerged as the most touristy state in recent years. Previously unknown places are regularly unearthed and developed as tourist hotspots and improving infrastructure and connectivity has made it one of the most sought-after destinations in India.   

Arunachal is again a peaceful state although the situation widely varies from place to place. Arunachal generally does not have history of any major insurgent organizations. However, the districts bordering Nagaland have some presence of the aforementioned NSCN, but even those areas are now trying to grow their tourism. However, Arunachal shares a long border with China, and a lot of action took place in the Indochina war of 1962. The infrastructure remained poor in this area because the administration thought that spending so much would be risky in case of another war. Only in the last couple of decades, the Indian state has shrugged off the doubts and started working on the frontier roads. However, the work is progressing rapidly now with major projects such as the Se La tunnel getting completed quickly. 

Is Manipur Safe for Travel?

The recent unrest in Manipur has somewhat dented its potential as a tourist destination. You can still visit some areas but check news and have local contacts before visiting. 

Manipur can be difficult to understand if you are new to it. Manipur consists of a plain valley surrounded by impregnable mountains. The Meiteis usually dominate the plains while different Naga and Kuki groups inhabit various parts of the hills. Conflict between different groups have always existed but the recent flare up between the Meiteis and Kukis have led to significant damage. However, it is not impossible to visit. Personally, I have friends who have visited Imphal Valley and nearby areas and also Ukhrul district. Some areas are as of now not advisable, however, most of them never had much tourism anyway. The only touristy area that has faced problems during the recent flare up is Moreh, the border town and gateway to Myanmar. 

Is Mizoram Safe for Travel?

Not as many people are visiting Mizoram as they should. It is probably the best example of sorting out past issues and moving forward towards a better future. 

Mizoram is nowadays a mostly peaceful state. However, it also had its share of insurgency in the past. The primary period of unrest started in the 1960s. The situation was such that it even led to the only incident in the history of India when the air force was used against its own citizens. However, it was sorted out through a peace accord in 1986. Since then, the rebel leaders also joined mainstream politics and it has remained peaceful.

Is Meghalaya Safe for Travel?

Meghalaya is probably the most easily reachable exotic hill state in India. Driving barely an hour and a half from Guwahati can take you to this land of misty waterfalls. 

Meghalaya is generally popular among tourists and does not have major insurgency issues but you still need to be aware of a few things. The Khasi and Jaintia hills regions are more frequented by tourists and although there are some organizations such as Hynniewtrep Achik Liberation Council (HALC) involved in armed conflict, they have gradually been weakened or simply surrendered. Garo Hills, which is a comparatively remote area, saw the emergence of Garo National Liberation Army (GNLA), which was involved in certain incidents. However, they have gradually subsided too and tourism infrastructure in Garo Hills is also gradually developing.

Is Tripura Safe for Travel?

Tripura is a generally peaceful state and being a plain area, much easier to navigate too. 

Tripura had a period of unrest as indigenous groups objected to the immigrant influx after the kingdom acceded to the Indian Union in 1948. However, most of these groups have either gradually weakened or signed a peace accord with the government. In general, the major tourist spots in the state are easily reachable and you are unlikely to face any problems.

Is Sikkim Safe for Travel?

Sikkim used to be an independent kingdom that merged with India peacefully and has remained so. Occasional bad weather and heavy rainfalls in the season can be a larger challenge here rather than any political issue. 

Sikkim is the most peaceful state in NE. It was always a separate area, without a common boundary with the rest of NE. There has never been any insurgency or violent incidents here. The only hitch is that it borders Tibet and there were some military engagements in the past as China had claims on Sikkim for a long time. This is why some frontier areas here require permits for these costs while foreign tourists are not even allowed to visit a couple of spots. However, there is much more to explore in this state.